Lady&#39;s garment



NOV. 7, 1944. BLOOM 2,362,239

LADY S GARMENT Filed March 10, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 IN V EN TOR.

Ndv. 7, 1944. M. BLOOM 2,362,239

LADY S GARMENT Filed March 10, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN TOR.

Patented Nov. 7, 1944 UNI TE D STAT E. S PATEN T v OF F] C E LADYS GARMENT Murray Bloom, Bronx, N. Y. Application March 10, 1944, Serial No. 525,905

4 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in ladies" garments and hasfor its principal objecttheprovision of an improved body garment'formed with attached waist and skirt portions and is so constructed as to have fitting qualities which'are superior to those found in ordinary garments. One of the principal objects of the present; inventionis to provide a body garment which tends ,to hug the figure without exerting any undue stress upon any particular part of the body and to have the same relative fitting qualities whether the wearer is sitting, standing or is actively engaged, such as in walking, bending stretching, etc.

Another object of theinvention is to so construct a slip asto not ride up when the wearer is sitting down. Ladies slips which accomplish this result in varying degrees are, of course, known in the art. It is a matter of common knowledge, however, that in almost every case, the more effective is the garment from the nonriding viewpoint, the less, comfort is experienced by the wearer when she sits down. This is true for the reason that this. increased girth must be compensated for elsewhere in the garment and the, result is a binding action on some part of the body. A garment constructed in accordance with, the present invention, however, rides upno more,.when the wearer sits down, than does the full. straight. garment, andpossesses the comfort incidental to a full bias-cut. garment.

This desirable result is accomplished by so forming the several blanks. used in the garment and so. joining. them together as to shift stress and strains-into such portions of the garment, whether the wearer is sitting, standing orwalking, as to exert no pressure on the'body, thus causing no discomfort nor bulging of material at any..point. To put the matter in anotherway, various garmentsin the, art .are best suited to the wearer in the matter of fit and comfort, while she is. sitting, others. while she is standing and still others while she is walking or dancing. A garment of thepresent invention'is equally suited for all three positions or activities.

jQne particuIar improvement in the garment of the present invention resides in the front skirt panel which in some respects is not unlike that used in a conventional l -gore type of slip except that it is provided with lateral extensions at its upper end which effectively cause the upper skirt portion to gradually merge into the waist encircling portion. lVloreover the terminals of this upper extension apparently act as pointsof suspension for the entire front of the skirt. The

function of these lateral extensions is aided considerably by the provision of a novel midriff section which is joined end to end along its lower edge to the upper edge of this skirt panel. This causes the garment to hug the figure, without binding, whilethe wearer is sitting, and to do likewise while the wearer is standing. Most garments, on the other hand, which are smooth fitting over the abdomen while the wearer is sitting, naturally tend tobulge when the wearer stands.

Another novel feature of the garment resides in the provision of two similarly shaped blanks which are joined to the opposed edges of the front skirt panel and which are themselves joined together at the rear of the garment to form a'single' rear vertical seam. Theupper edges of these blanks are upwardlyand outwardly curved, giving the skirt a circular sweep having a progressively increasing bias effect as the back of the garment is approached. The upper waist section of the garment which is secured along these curvededges, constitute edges which are straight and provides a form fitting quality for the garment which will be pointed out more indetail hereinafter.

The present invention may be embodied in a ladys undergarment such as a slip, or it may be constructed as a gown or even as a dress. Other novel features and advantages of the invention will be discussed or will become apparent as the specification proceeds. a

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the front and side of a body garment, in this instance a slip, constituting one embodiment of the present inven-' tion.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the rear of such garment.

Fig. 3 is a full front elevation of the garment. I

Fig. 4 is a front perspective view of a garment constituting a modified embodiment of the present invention.

Fig. 5 shows another modified embodiment.

' Figs. 6 to 10 inclusive are plan views of blanks forming the pattern for the garment shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3.

One highly satisfactory garment forming an. embodiment of the present invention is formed These include blank lll'forming the front garment.

one side of the brassiere section and blank l4 forming one side of the rear waist section. Blanks l3 and M are also referred to in the dressmaking art as a front yoke and a back shield, respectively.

Blank will now be described in detail. Broken line A-A running through the center of the blank forms the front median line of the The lower edge l5 may be convexly curved and forms the lower edge of the front skirt section. Side edges l6 converge inwardly as they proceed upwardly and may be substantially straight. Lateral extensions I! at the upper end of the blank are defined by upwardly and outwardly extending lower edges l8, short vertical edges I9 and convexly curved upper edges 20 which intersect at the center of the blank. This blank is preferably, though not necessarily, on the bias, that is to say, the grain line of the material is at an angle to line A-A, which is the front median line of the garment. The extent of bias may vary depending upon the particular size of the garment and in many instances a full bias will be desired.

Each of blanks H includes the lower edge 2| which may have substantially the same curvature as lower edge l5 of blank l0 and a substantially straight vertical edge 22 which may be of the same general length as edge I6 inblank I0, such edges being joined together from end to end by stitching or other means to form stitch line 23 in the finished garment. The blank also includes another substantially straight vertical edge 24, which edges of the two similarly shaped blanks are joined together from end to end to form a single rear vertical seam 25. Finally, blank I! includes a concavely curved upper edge 26 and may also include as a seaming allowance, a short Blank M, of which two or four are employed for the rear waist section is generally rectangular and includes edges 43, 44, 45 and 46. -Edges 44 and 45 form the upper edges of each rear waist section and a shoulder strap 49 on each side of the garment is secured at its forward end to point 50 formed by intersection of edges 36 and 31 in blank l3 and at its rearward end to point 5! edge 21 between edges 26 and 24. In its presently preferred form, edge 22 may be parallel with the grain line of the material and edge 24 will then be on a partial bias. This arrangement gives an approved measure of circumferential elasticity to the lower or skirt section of the garment.

Midriff blank l2 includes opposed, concavely curved portions 30-30 forming the lower edge, such edges being shaped generally complemental to upper, convexly curved edges 20 of blank I0, to which they are joined to form stitch line 3|. The upper edge of blank 12 is formed substantially similar to the lower edge although the two opposed concavely curved portions 32-32 forming such edge need not necessarily constitute arcs of the same circle as do lower edges 30-3 0. The opposed vertical edges 33 of this blank may be slightly non-parallel as shown. The blank is desirably on the bias relative to the front median lineof the garment.

The brassire section is formed of e ther two or four blanks 13 of the shape shown in Fig. 7, depending upon whether a single or double yoke is desired. In the position shown the blank illustrated is for the right hand side of the garment when viewed as in Fig. 1, and the left hand side of the brassire section is formed of the same blank reversed as to sides. The blank includes upper edges 36 and 31 forming the top of the breast enclosing section. Edge. 36 is desirably, though not necessarily, substantially parallel with the grain line of the material thus giving the brassiere section a desired measure of elasticity. The blank further includes a third, substantially straight edge 38, a somewhat irregularly shaped curved lower edge 39 and a substantially Straight edge 40.

formed by the intersection of edges 44 and 45 in blank 14. Edge 46 of blank I4 and edge I8 of blank I0 haVe a combined length generally equal to that of curved edge 26 of blank I I and such edges are joined together to form a stitch line 52' which extends from the front panel from a point below the waist line and spaced from the front median line upwardly and rearwardly through the underarm section and terminates at the upper edge of the garment at the center back seam 25. The particular location and contour of this seam has a considerable factor in the excellent fitting qualities of the garment, particularly in joining the straight edge (edges 46 and Hi) to curved edge 26. Edge 43 of blank I 4 is now stitched to edge 38 of blank l3 and 33 of midriff blank I2 to form stitch line 56.

The disposition of three of the edges in blank l3, namely edges 36, 31 and 38, has been dis cussed. Edges 39 and 40 remain. Edge 40 of blank IS on the right hand side of the garment is stitched to the same edge of the duplicate blank on the left hand side of the garment forming line 53. During the stitching operation a plurality of horizontal darts 55 are formed on opposite sides of vertical stitch line 53. A plurality of notches 57 along this edge may be provided for indicating to the operator the specific location of the horizontal folds which are made preliminary to forming the darts. These darts aid in causing the brassiere section to give a form fitting effect around the breasts, as do the darts 58 formed along the lower edge 39 of the blanks. A plurality of cut out portions 59 and notches 60 designate to the operator the location of these darts. Lower edge 39 of blank i3 is stitched to upper edge 32 of the midriff section forming stitch line 62.

The foregoing detailed description of the shapes of the several blanks as well as the particular manner in which they are joined together representv the manner in which one garment embodying the present invention, of a certain size, may

be constructed. It will be appreciated, however,

that the blank formations may vary as the size varies, and accordingly, the particular location of seams and other details of construction may be modified to meet given requirements. Also the construction may vary, depending upon whether the garment is formed as a slip, a gown or a dress. In other words, the embodiment of the invention described has been ofiered for purposes of illustration only and is not to be taken in any limiting sense.

Also, garments other than full body garments may be made following the teachings of the present invention. For instance in Fig. 4 a skirt or petticoat is illustrated wherein the front skirt panel 65 is formed with the lateral extensions 66 similar to blank II] in Fig. 10. The skirit further includes the side portions 6'! which are joined together at the rear to form a rear vertical seam 58. Midriff section 69 is secured along its lower edge to opposed, convexly curved edges of the front skirt panel forming stitch line 10. The other vertical edges of side and rear panels 61 are joined to the opposed edges of the skirit panel 65' forming stitch line H. The same garment may be formed as a pantie as shown in Fig. 5, the garment being shorter and including a crotch portion 12.

What I claim is: c

1. A ladies garment including attached waist and skirt portions formed from a plurality of blanks of material including an elongated blank forming the front skirt portion and provided with upwardly disposed lateral extensions at its upper end which extend into the Waist encircling portion, a pair of blanks, each secured along one vertical edge thereof to an Opposed vertical edge of the front skirt portion, each of such blanks being secured together along their opposite edges to form a single rear vertical seam, the upper edges of each of such blanks being concavely and upwardly curved and terminating at the upper end of said rear vertical seam, a brassiere section, and ablank forming a midriff section connecting the lower edge of the brassire section with the upper edge of the front skirt section, the grain line of the material in the front skirt section, the midriff section, and the material lying on opposite sides of the rear vertical seam, lying on a bias relative to the front median line of the garment, the curved edges of the pair of blanks in the skirt section being joined to the lower edges of the lateral extensions and of the. brassire sections, such combined lower edges being substantially straight.

2. A ladies garment including attached waist and skirt portions formed from a plurality of blanks of material including an elongated blank forming the front skirt portion and provided with upwardly-disposed lateral extensions at its upper end which extend into the waist-encircling por-' tion, a pair of blanks, each secured along one vertical edge thereof to an opposed vertical edge of the front ski'rt portion, each of such blanks being secured together along their opposite edges to form a single rear vertical seam, the upper edges of each of such blanks being upwardly curved and terminating at the upper end of said rear vertical seam, a brassiere section, and a blank forming a midriif section connecting the lower edge of the brassiere section with the upper blanks of material including an elongated blank forming the front skirt portion and provided at its upper end with upwardly-disposed lateral exopposite vertical edges to form a single rear vertical seam, the upper edges of such blanks extending upwardly and rearwardly, and being joined along a portion thereof to the lower edges of the lateral extensions of the front skirt blank, blanks joined together to form brassiere and back waist sections,,the lower edges of such latter sections being secured to the remaining portion of the upwardly and rearwardly-extending edges of the pair of blanks, and a blank forming a midriff section secured between the lower edge of the brassire section and the upper edge of the front skirt section.

4. A body garment including attached waist and skirt portions formed from a plurality of blanks of material including an elongated blank forming the front skirt portion and provided at its upper end with upwardly-disposed lateral extensions which extend into the waist section, the

grain line of the material in such front skirt secblanks being secured along their opposite vertical edge of the front skirt section, the curved edges sions and of the brassiere sections.

3. A body garment including attached waist and skirt portions formed from a, plurality of edges to' form a single rear vertical scam, the

grain line of the material on opposite sides ofsuch seam being on a bias relative to the seam, the upper edges of such blanks extending upwardly and rearwardly, and being joined along a portion thereof to the lower edges of the lateral extensions of the front skirt blank, blanks forming brassire and back waist sections, the lower edges of such latter sections being secured to the remaining portion of the upwardly and rearwardly-extending edges of the pair of blanks, a blank forming a midriff section secured between the lower edge of the brassire section and the upper edge of the front skirt section, and a plurallty of vertical darts formed along the lower edge of the brassiere section, and a horizontal dart along the frontbrassire section, to shape such section.

MURRAY BLOOM. 

